Blue jeans, once worn only by hands-on craftsmen or artists, work harder than most other clothes in the wardrobe. They’re perfect for any season, especially when paired with Harris tweed or a goose down jacket in autumn and winter, or a large-cable navy jumper or unstructured cotton blazer for spring and summer. Wearing a great pair of jeans isn’t about covering one’s nakedness – it’s about finding the perfect fit in the most pliable denim fabric.
When it comes right down to brass tacks, the right pair of jeans are hand-finished, custom-design wearable gorgeousness. The buttons, rivets, and other small things add up to greatness. Jeans dress up or down, and that’s one of the best reasons we know of to buy really great jeans that fit…
So, Do Your Jeans Fit?
Take a look in a full-length mirror to determine if your jeans bag at the knees… or anywhere. If you need a belt to make sure they don’t slip from your waist, your jeans don’t fit.
- If you don’t have a brand of jeans that you’re loyal to, chances are you haven’t found one that’s truly comfortable and fits you well.
- If in doubt about whether one’s jeans fit well, watch how a woman’s eyes scan your body. Do her eyes linger as she’s actively or passively admiring you?
What’s the Best Denim?
A man’s build, body type and preferences determine his choice of favorite jeans. Denim brands rise and fall in desirability, so we’re here to scope out the most popular designer denim in the land.
Tailored Levis
Men with an extra £500 to spare can save a lot of time on shopping for jeans by ordering a made-to-fit, specially tailored pair from Levi’s Lot No 1 in London. Clients for these super-elite jeans are measured, fitted, and attended to by a Levi’s tailor. Each pair of jeans are made from start to finish by hand over about two days’ time.
The client selects the denim fabric. He then chooses the weight, texture, and color of denim along with the stitching. There are various thread-counts to choose from, made in the U.S., Japan, or Turkey. Next, he tries on some pattern samples – e.g. high, medium, or low-rise – to get a quick idea of what fits best.
Then, the tailor pins denim around the client’s legs to capture the client’s perfect shape, be this straight, skinny, or tapered to athletic calves.
The process seems a bit like… buying a suit. But particularly large, tall, or otherwise hard-to-fit men might find the time and expense worth the effort: the tallest men don’t like to shop for a reason.
Nudie Jeans
No, Nudie Jeans aren’t nude, nor do they feature nudity on the label. They’re “Nudie” because they fit like second skin.
Started by a subsidiary of Svenska Jeans AB in 1999 by Swedish designer Maria Erixsson (formerly of Lee Europe), the company is all about jeans. Nudie specialize in pre-washed and “raw” denim that is loomed in small amounts from natural fibers in Portugal, Turkey, and Japan.
Specifically, about eighty percent of their revenues derive from jean sales to men in more than twenty countries outside Sweden and the brand is back-ordered in major retail outlets around the world. Liquor Store Clothing are an example of a retailer that offers Nudie Jeans in the UK to an international clientele.
Momotaro Jeans
Shopping in Tokyo can be a challenge for an English speaker, unless one is shopping for a pair of jeans. In this instance, ask for “jeans” and, if seeking an awesome pair of designer jeans, include “Momotaro.”
Momotaro jeans are made in small lots on vintage sewing machines. Every detail is attended to, and everything is finished by hand. If you’re lucky enough to find a pair, these jeans will become a daily habit. (Better buy two pairs to keep a freshly laundered pair available!)
